Restaurants, as we know them today, emerged in the United States in the 1820s and 1830s. Before then, the main dining places outside the home were at inns and saloons where unaccompanied women were unusual and presumed to be of “ill repute.” The early restaurants, meant to be places of elegant dining banned unaccompanied women. A few restaurants provided private rooms where men could bring paid companions for dinner and after-dinner activities {i.e. dancing}. Hotels had to accommodate the occasional solo women traveler; some set aside special eating rooms with separate entrances just for them. Similarly, some restaurants allowed groups of women to reserve private rooms for luncheons. But in general and despite protests by early feminists, respectable restaurants discouraged women, especially if they were not with husbands or fathers, from dining or from dining in the central space.
The development over the nineteenth century of alternative eating places for women, a response to the growing number of middle-class women coming downtown to shop, particularly after the Civil War, at department stores, and to the growing number of women employed in downtown offices.
Department stores themselves provided places for ladies’ lunch, but particularly distinctive was the evolution of candy stores, ice cream “saloons,” and tea rooms into restaurants with larger menus. The women’s eateries emphasized the lighter meals, salads, and sweets that restauranteurs thought were distinctively women’s fare and, importantly, excluded alcohol and thus the men interested in drinking. These were special accommodations for women. Even after the turn of the century, fashionable restaurants turned away unaccompanied women, especially later in the evening.
Marshall Field's — Ahead of the times. In 1890, Mrs. Hering shared her homemade Chicken Pot Pie with a hungry customer so she wouldn't leave to go home for lunch. She said she would bring some friends the next day to try the Chicken Pot Pie and shop. Marshall Field opened a small tearoom with 15 tables on the 3rd floor to keep women in the store, shopping, instead of leaving to lunch. "The South Tearoom" for ladies became Chicago's first full-service dining establishment within a department store and was a runaway hit. This was parlayed into Marshall Field's Walnut Room in 1937.
The turning point was Prohibition in the 1920s. Unable to make their profits on alcohol, many of the classic restaurants went out of business. “Free lunch” bars also closed. “The places that flourished in the new environment were luncheonettes, coffee shops, soda and hamburger places, roadside restaurants, Chinese restaurants, and other ethnic establishments — most of them welcoming female customers. Beginning in the 1920s, men showed up at what had previously been largely female preserves to consume sandwiches and other light fare served without alcoholic accompaniment.” Today, all diners are welcomed.
Compiled by Neil Gale, Ph.D.
Awesome article! And another example of the historical importance of Marshall Field's. Thanks for the great article!
ReplyDeleteField's is always a treat no matter what time of year and especially magical during the holidays. As soon as I saw the photo I knew where it was. Love looking and imaginging what the people in the photo were doing, feeling and what was the purpose of their visit. Thanks Neil!
ReplyDeleteInteresting
ReplyDeleteMarshall Field's moved their Men's Annex Grill across the street some gentlemen could conduct business lunches, have a drink and a smoke and not have to check their manners or speech at the door. Same for shopping. The Men's Annex made it possible for men to shop on their own. John G. Shedd was the instigator of that move.
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